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Lighting Techniques for Photographing Model Portfolios

129 Pages · 2009 · 9.73 MB · English

  • Lighting Techniques for Photographing Model Portfolios

    S T R A T E G I E S F O R D I G I T A L P H O T O G R A P H E R S


    L


    IGHTING


    TECHNIQUES


    for Photographing


    Model Portfolios


    Billy Pegram


    Amherst Media


    ®


    PUBLISHEROFPHOTOGRAPHYBOOKS Copyright©2009byBillyPegram.


    Allrightsreserved.


    Publishedby:


    AmherstMedia,Inc.


    P.O.Box586


    Buffalo,N.Y.14226


    Fax:716-874-4508


    www.AmherstMedia.com


    Publisher:CraigAlesse


    SeniorEditor/ProductionManager:MichellePerkins


    AssistantEditor:BarbaraA.Lynch-Johnt


    EditorialAssistancefrom:JohnS.Loder,CareyAnnMaines,CharlesSchweizer


    ISBN-13:978-1-58428-259-4


    LibraryofCongressControlNumber:2008942245


    PrintedinKorea.


    10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1


    Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,stored,ortransmittedinanyformorbyanymeans,electronic,mechani-


    cal,photocopied,recordedorotherwise,withoutpriorwrittenconsentfromthepublisher.


    Notice of Disclaimer: The information contained in this book is based on the author’s experience and opinions. The au-


    thorandpublisherwillnotbeheldliablefortheuseormisuseoftheinformationinthisbook. Table of Contents


    Preface ..................................................8


    Introduction ..............................................9


    It’sNotAboutEquipment ...................................11


    TheoryandPassion ........................................11


    PhotographingModels .....................................13


    TheRewardsofModelPhotography ...........................13


    Creativity ..............................................13


    Travel ................................................14


    Financial ..............................................14


    MakingaPositiveChange .................................14


    TheChallengesofModelPhotography .........................14


    EnvironmentalDemands ..................................14


    TechnicalChallenges .....................................14


    WhattoEmphasize ......................................15


    WorkingwithPeople .....................................16


    BeginwithPortraiture ......................................16


    1. Basic Principles ........................................19


    Previsualization ...........................................19 EmulatetheSuccessofOthers ..............................19


    UseYourImagination ....................................19


    CommunicateYourConcept ...............................21


    Objectives ...............................................22


    CreatingFlow ..........................................22


    StoppingtheGaze .......................................24


    YourVisualToolbox .......................................24


    StraightLines ..........................................24


    Curves ................................................25


    CompositionandCropping ................................25


    Perspective .............................................26


    ToneandColor ...........................................27


    UseaTripod .............................................28


    2. The Physics of Light ....................................30


    WhatLightIs ............................................31


    HowLightBehaves ........................................32


    Reflection .............................................32


    Refraction .............................................32


    Absorption ............................................32


    QualityoftheLight ........................................32


    SizeoftheLightSource ...................................33


    NaturalLight ...........................................33


    DirectionoftheLight ......................................35


    FrontLight ............................................35


    AngledorSideLight .....................................36


    Backlight ..............................................37


    LightandColor ...........................................39


    ColorTemperature ......................................39


    PracticalExample:AddingVarietywithWhiteBalance ............40


    LightIntensityandMetering .................................42


    3. Light Placement ........................................44


    Objectives ...............................................44


    MainLight ..............................................44


    PracticalExample:LightingtheMaskoftheFace ................46


    FillLight ................................................50


    HairLight ...............................................51


    BackgroundLight(s) .......................................51


    AccentLight(s) ...........................................51


    LightingintheStudio ......................................51


    LightingOutdoorsandOnLocation ...........................54


    4LIGHTINGTECHNIQUESFORPHOTOGRAPHINGMODELPORTFOLIOS 4. Types of Light Sources ..................................55


    Naturalvs.ArtificialLight ...................................55


    Sunlight .................................................55


    BrightSunlight .........................................55


    CloudySkies ...........................................56


    PracticalExample:BrightSunlight ...........................56


    PracticalExample:MorningLight ...........................60


    PracticalExample:UseWhatYouFind........................61


    TungstenLighting .........................................63


    PracticalExample:SlowShutterSpeed,HighISO ...............63


    FluorescentLighting .......................................64


    ElectronicFlash ...........................................64


    PracticalExample:FillFlash ................................64


    StudioStrobe .............................................65


    PracticalExample:StrobeforConsistentResults ................66


    5. Light Modifiers ........................................68


    Reflectors................................................68


    Surface ...............................................69


    Design ................................................69


    ForFill ...............................................69


    PracticalExample:ReflectedFillonLocation ...................69


    PracticalExample:NaturalReflectors .........................73


    Gobos ..................................................73


    PracticalExample:GobostoControlAccentLighting ............73


    PracticalExample:GobostoControlLensFlare ................75


    Scrims ..................................................75


    BarebulbLighting .........................................76


    Parabolics ...............................................76


    PracticalExample:BacklightingwithParabolics .................76


    BeautyDish ..............................................78


    Diffusers ................................................78


    BarnDoors ..............................................78


    Spotlights ...............................................78


    GridSpots ...............................................79


    Snoots ..................................................79


    Umbrellas ...............................................79


    Softboxes ................................................79


    PracticalExample:SoftandBeautiful .........................79


    PracticalExample:AFresh,ColorfulLook .....................81


    ColoredGels .............................................83


    TABLEOFCONTENTS5 6. Matching the Light to the Image ...........................84


    DeterminingtheModel’sBestMarket ..........................84


    Age ..................................................84


    Height ................................................86


    OverallAppearance ......................................86


    CommercialImages ........................................86


    PracticalExample:MariposaFilms ...........................88


    FashionImages ...........................................90


    GlamourImages ..........................................91


    LingerieImages ...........................................92


    Plus-SizeImages ..........................................94


    EditorialImages ...........................................95


    Athletic/SportsImages .....................................96


    CatalogImages ...........................................98


    SwimwearImages .........................................99


    PracticalExample:TwoLooksintheDesert ..................100


    SpecialAttributes .........................................101 7. Creative Techniques ...................................102


    DragtheShutterforCreativeEffect ...........................102


    ControltheBackgroundwithLight ...........................102


    LookAround! ...........................................107


    CreateaStoryboard .......................................107


    AddLensFlare ..........................................111


    DoExtremeClose-Ups ....................................115


    WorkwithPerformers .....................................116


    PracticalExample:EmeraldDreamBall ......................116


    PracticalExample:HeadlightsandTailpipes ...................117


    HighlightOneAsset ......................................119


    UseaProp ..............................................120


    PracticalExample:AK-47 ................................120


    PracticalExample:Newspapers ............................120


    8. Additional Tips .......................................122


    U.S./Europeanvs.AsianAgencies ............................122


    U.S.andEuropeanAgencies ..............................122


    AsianAgencies .........................................122


    CompCards ............................................122


    TheModel’sComfort .....................................122


    Clothing ...............................................123


    Menvs.Women ..........................................123


    ImageQuality ...........................................123


    Conclusion .............................................124


    Index ..................................................125


    TABLEOFCONTENTS7 Preface


    byLoaAndersen


    I


    first met Billy Pegram when he was shooting fashion in Seattle and I was


    the new agent on the block. We developed a synergistic relationship. He


    introduced me to clients; I had him shoot the models I represented. I have


    nowknownhimfornearlythreedecades.Duringthistime,wehavelearned


    from each other and become friends. I have admired his creativity, argued


    withhimoverwhatshouldbeinamodel’sportfolio,laughedathissillyjokes,


    and been highly impressed with his professionalism. However, it has only


    beensincebecominghistypist/reader/spellcheckerthatIhavebeguntoap-


    preciate his vast knowledge of all the various aspects of photography. I now


    cringewhenIhearsomeonespeakofashooteras“justaphotographer.”


    Thereissomuchmoretophotographythanjustpickingupacameraand


    goingatit.Agoodphotographermusthavein-depthknowledgeofamulti-


    tude of disciplines. A photographer must be not only an artist, but also a


    mathematician,achemist,andaphysicist—and,ofcourse,partpsychologist


    just to deal with the personalities of the models, directors, clients, and sup-


    portstaff.Italsohelpstohaveafirmknowledgeofbusinesspractices.


    BillyPegramisallofthesethingsandmore.Hisbackgroundiseclectic.He


    was an award-winning photographer in ninth grade, then headed to college


    on a full athletic scholarship and an appointment to Annapolis Naval Acad-


    emy. He began college as a pre-med student, then joined the military when


    helosthisscholarshipduetoabrokenleg.ThatledtoastintwithNASAat


    theNavyAerospaceMedicalResearchLab,wherehenotonlysetrecordsfor


    ridesontherocketsled(sixty-fourridesandamaximumof16.7Gs)butalso


    ranthelab.


    Later, as a civilian, he was offered jobs as a director of a research lab, a


    wilderness survival teacher, and a whitewater guide (among several other


    more mundane opportunities). He still considered becoming a doctor, spe-


    cializinginmedicalresearch,andwasofferedafullscholarshiptodoso.How-


    ever,heputalloffersasidetobecomeaphotographer,because,ashesays,“It


    wasmorechallenging.”


    BillyPegramisabornteacher,aperfectionist,anexpertinhisfield,agreat


    writer,andacreativegenius.Heisafriendandmentortohundredsofhope-


    ful models and aspiring photographers. He is also one who enjoys a good


    challenge.Inshort,heisthedefinitivephotographer.


    8LIGHTINGTECHNIQUESFORPHOTOGRAPHINGMODELPORTFOLIOS Introduction


    W


    hen Amherst Media initially asked me to write an instructional book


    on photographic lighting, I had some reservations about the idea.


    After all, there are many fine books available on this subject. However, after


    reviewingmanyofthesepublications,Ifoundthatveryfewactuallyputlight-


    ing in practical, understandable terms. So I proposed creating a book that


    I-1.Whenthemodellooksgreatandthe


    imageisengaging,noonewillcareex-


    actly what kind of lighting equipment


    youusedtocreateit.


    Please note: To fully download this free PDF,EBook files you need know All free.
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